Monday, March 26, 2018

Chocolate and Dutch stout cake with white chocolate-cream cheese frosting

A good chocolate cake recipe to have in your back pocket is one of the greatest things for anyone who loves to bake, and even though classic chocolate cake recipes are all pretty much the same, this one is somewhat different.



It has a couple of ingredients that make it extra special, Dutch stout beer and yoghurt, that transform its flavor and texture, making it much more interesting than your average chocolate cake.




I love adding beer and particularly its dark and malty cousin, the stout, in all kinds of chocolate-based desserts as it has the magical ability to bring out the flavor of the cocoa even more, as evidenced in this cake; a dense (but not heavy) and moist cake with a deeply chocolatey flavor and a subtle bitterness from the stout that balances the sweetness of the luscious, creamy frosting.


It’s the sort of cake that can stand on its own, without the topping, but pairing it with the white chocolate and cream cheese frosting that’s buttery, creamy, smooth and perfectly complementing the flavors of the cake, makes for an excellent combination.




It’s the kind of cake that you can’t resist having more than piece of, which means it’s rather dangerous, so consider yourselves warned. Oh, and apologies to those of you avoiding sweets. #sorrynotsorry




Without being too fussy or difficult to execute, it’s a cake fitting for a celebration or special occasion, see Easter Day to close out the feast with something chocolatey and delicious, birthdays, name days or anniversaries, but also for an everyday occasion, see afternoon coffee or tea, or just when you want something sweet to have around the house for those nagging chocolate cravings.









Chocolate and Dutch stout cake with white chocolate-cream cheese frosting

This is the sort of cake that tastes better the next day, so you could easily bake it the day before, let it cool completely, store it in an airtight container or wrap it tightly with plastic wrap and continue the next day with the frosting. This is especially handy if you are making the cake for a celebration and you need to prepare as many dishes as you can in advance.

Stout is a dark and quite bitter and strong beer. I used a Dutch, dry, extra stout, that has an even stronger taste, but you can use a dry, regular stout as well, preferably Dutch.

This is the second time that I’m sharing with you a chocolate cake for Easter. The first one was back in 2011 and was this wonderful two-layered chocolate Easter egg nest cake with chocolate truffle eggs!



Yield: 10 servings (or more if sliced thinly)

Ingredients

for the cake
300 g unsalted butter, cut into pieces, plus extra for greasing the pan
100 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder (sifted if lumpy)
150 ml dark, dry, extra (or regular) stout, preferably Dutch, measured without foam
250 g all-purpose flour
375 g white granulated sugar
10 g (2 tsp) baking powder
Pinch of sea salt
3 large eggs
150 g thick Greek yoghurt, full-fat (I use Total Fage)
15 ml (1 Tbsp) pure vanilla extract

for the frosting
200 g white chocolate (at least 32% cocoa butter content), cut into small pieces
125 g unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
225 g cream cheese, full-fat, at room temperature
225 g icing sugar, sifted

Special equipment: fine sieve, 23 cm round springform pan, baking paper, wooden spoon, stiff rubber spatula


Preparation

for the cake
Preheat your oven to 180°C.

Butter the sides and bottom of a 23cm round spring-form pan and line the bottom with a round piece of baking paper. (See here how to cut a round piece of baking paper).

In a small saucepan, add the butter and melt over a medium heat. Turn off the heat and add the cocoa powder and stout. Whisk to combine. You should now have a smooth and glossy mixture (see photo right below).


In a large bowl, add the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt, and mix with wooden spoon. Make a well in the center and crack in the eggs. Add the yoghurt, the butter-cocoa powder-stout mixture and the vanilla, and using a large wire whisk, mix well until you have a smooth and shinny batter, for about 2 minutes. You could use an electric hand-held mixer to do this if you find it difficult to whisk by hand. In this case, mix for just a minute until the ingredients are totally combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and place on the lower rack of the preheated oven. Bake for 40 minutes, then transfer to the middle rack and bake for a further 10 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. It’s a good idea to start checking for doneness at the 45 minute mark since not all ovens are the same. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for about 30 minutes before removing the cake from the pan very carefully, leaving the cake on the rack (with baking paper still attached at the bottom) to cool completely before frosting it. It will take about 5 hours for the cake to cool completely. Don’t frost it before it cools completely because the frosting will melt over the cake.


for the frosting
In the meantime, prepare the frosting. Melt the white chocolate in the microwave, being careful not to overheat it. Let it cool.

In a medium-sized mixing bowl, add the butter and cream cheese, and beat using a stiff, rubber spatula or a wooden spoon until the two ingredients are combined and there are no visible streaks of butter or cream cheese in the mixture. Pour the melted and cooled white chocolate in the butter-cream cheese mixture and beat well with the spatula or wooden spoon until you have a smooth mixture without any lumps. It needs a bit of elbow grease to become smooth, but it’ll get there. Don’t be tempted to use an electric mixer for this as it will soften the frosting too much and you’ll end up with a runny instead of a fluffy frosting. Finally, add the sifted icing sugar and beat with the spatula or wooden spoon until you have a smooth and fluffy frosting.


Assemble the cake
When the cake has completely cooled, remove the baking paper from the bottom and transfer it onto a cake stand or cake platter. If there’s any doming of the cake (there usually is - there is also going to be some cracking on top), there’s no need to cut it off because the frosting will do a great job of covering it. Add the frosting on top of the cake, a spoonful at a time, spreading it right up to the edges. Make swirls using a small spatula or a palette knife to give it volume.

You can store it in the fridge for a day, covered with plastic wrap. The frosting will firm up in the fridge.

Serve and enjoy!

• Adapted from Donal Skehan

Sunday, March 4, 2018

Dried barberry jam

While everyone is trying to capture the essence of citrus fruits and preserve it for the months to come with marmalades and jams, I am trying to capture the essence of barberries and the Middle East with a different kind of jam. One made with the dried fruit rather than the fresh —impossible to find fresh barberries here anyway—, that’s different than anything else I have ever tasted.




Quite sharp, intensely fruity and tangy, zingy and a bit sour and tart to the point where you think you can’t handle it, but then the sweetness kicks in to reassure your palate and bring balance. Flavored with saffron, cinnamon and cardamom, and sweetened by Demerara sugar which has a caramel sweetness that deepens the flavor of the jam, and having a lot of texture with a mixture of plump little barberries and wrinkly, crinkly ones.


It reminds me a bit of pomegranate molasses in terms of the effect it has on the palate, therefore, I think it would be great in stews, like a Persian stew, with this jam added instead of the pomegranate molasses.




It’s a jam not for the faint-hearted, nor for those who crave absolute sweetness, but for those who dream of a flavor combination that’s lively and unusual.




It’s the kind of jam that you’d thinly spread on top of a heavily buttered piece of toast to mellow out the tart, acidic tang of the jam, and one that I deeply enjoy paired with foie gras (duck or goose liver pâté) as its fattiness cuts through the sharpness of the jam (combo pictured in the photos below), or with pork rillettes (rough, rustic kind of pâté) and various charcuterie, or served as a side to seared, crispy-skinned duck breast, or a luscious duck leg confit.









Dried barberry jam
Slightly adapted from Sweet Middle East by Anissa Helou

It’s best if you keep it for 2-3 days in the fridge before you try it; the spices will have time to give more flavor to the jam and the sharpness of the fruit will mellow out a little bit.

Barberries are a very traditional Iranian dried fruit that’s acidic, quite tart and a tiny bit sweet. And if you want to use your barberries in more recipes, here is another one for Kuku sabzi, a Persian herb omelette with feta.




Yield: 1 large-ish jar

Ingredients
200 g dried barberries
380 ml unsweetened, pure apple juice
4 green cardamom pods, crushed lightly
1 cinnamon stick
Pinch of saffron threads
170 g Demerara sugar


Preparation
Rinse the barberries well under cold running water and place them in a large glass bowl. Add the apple juice and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Place the bowl in the refrigerator and let the barberries soak in the apples juice for 14-15 hours.

In a large saucepan, add the barberries and the apple juice, cardamom pods, saffron and the cinnamon stick, and place over a high heat. Bring to the boil, stirring continuously with a heatproof spatula, and then add the sugar, without stopping stirring. Let boil for 4 minutes, still stirring constantly and then remove from the heat. Take out carefully the cinnamon stick and discard it and pour the jam into a sterilized glass jar (read here on how to sterilize glass jars). Put on the lid and turn the jar upside down.


Allow to cool completely and then store in the refrigerator for 2-3 days before opening and tasting it.

You can keep it in the fridge unopened for up to 3 months. Once opened, it keeps for 1 to 1½ month in the fridge.