Fish II

I very much dislike it when people start getting all healthy on me in January. Insipid soups and tasteless veggie meals annoy the hell out of me and so do people who regret eating a little more during the holidays that they feel they have to starve themselves when the new year begins.

How can I be deprived of my comfort foods during January? How am I supposed to beat my winter blues without some delicious food at my dinner table?

I understand that keeping a balanced diet is crucial and you can’t go on forever eating carbs, meat and chocolate but the holidays are not an excuse to binge-eat either, especially if it’s going to make you eat copious amounts of broccoli and carrots throughout January.

So keep that in mind when I suggest you eat more fish. It’s not because fish are healthy and good for you, but only because they’re the most delicious thing nature has to offer.

I can’t get enough of fish, especially since my holidays were filled with the robust flavors of pork and game. Fish’s subtle flavor and delicate texture is all I dream about when it comes to lunch and dinner, especially when they’re little whitebait or red mullets.

These photographs were taken in Greece in late autumn. I didn’t bother taking any pictures of the fish the other day when we had the exact same thing, because fresh Greek fish look stunning. Plus it gave me the opportunity to eat my food hot and steamy, straight from the frying pan and not have S complain about me taking photos and the food getting cold.

Fried fish with crispy skin and tender flesh, still juicy and smelling of the sea. Ah, there’s nothing like it. Paired with ouzo, some hand-cut potatoes fried in olive oil and boiled seasonal greens (I used kale this time but if I was in Greece I would choose zohous) with a squeeze of lemon and a splash of olive oil, it brings the sunshine and warmth back into our January lives.

Greek Fried Whitebait (Marides Tiganites)

The smaller the fish, the tastiest they are. As long as they’re fresh, there’s not much more you need to have a good meal.

Whitebait doesn’t need cleaning at all (from scales or guts), just a simple rinsing.

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients
1 kg fresh whole whitebait
All-purpose flour
Olive oil (or good quality sunflower oil), for frying
Sea salt
Lemon, for squeezing over the fish

Preparation
Rinse the whitebait well under cold running water and drain in a colander. Pat dry with paper towels.

In a large baking dish, add 2-3 cups of flour and tip in the fish. Shake the pan around so the fish is well coated all around with the flour. If needed, add more flour.

In a wide and deep frying pan or skillet, add enough oil to come halfway up the sides of the pan. Heat over medium-high heat and when it starts to shimmer add the fish, one by one, shaking off extra flour before adding it to the oil. Don’t overcrowd the pan because they will stick to one another and not cook properly.
Fry fish for 3-4 minutes until golden on all sides, flipping them around once.

Remove them with a slotted spoon and place them on paper towels to absorb the excess oil. Fry the next batches of fish in the same manner.

Serve hot with a good sprinkle of sea salt and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Greek Fried Red Mullet (Barbounia Tiganita)

I prefer the small red mullets but the larger ones are also flavorful. They have many little bones and it’s a hassle to remove but the flavor compensates.

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients
1 kg fresh whole red mullet
All-purpose flour
Olive oil (or good quality sunflower oil), for frying
Sea salt
Lemon, for squeezing over the fish

Preparation
Scale and gut the fish or have your fishmonger do it for you. Rinse well under cold running water and drain in a colander. Pat dry with paper towels.

In a large baking dish, add 2-3 cups of flour and tip in the fish. Shake the pan around so the fish is well coated all around with the flour. If needed, add more flour.

In a wide frying pan or skillet, add enough oil to come halfway up the sides of the pan. Heat over medium-high heat and when it starts to shimmer add the fish, one by one, shaking off extra flour before adding it to the oil. Don’t overcrowd the pan. Fry fish in one layer.
Fry fish for 2-3 minutes on one side and 2 minutes on the other side, until golden, flipping them around once.

Remove them with a slotted spoon and place them on a platter. I like to dunk my bread in the oil. If you don’t like that, place on paper towels to absorb the oil. Fry the next batches of fish in the same manner.

Serve hot with a good sprinkle of sea salt and a squeeze of lemon juice.

See also: Greek Baked Mackerel (Kolios) with Olive Oil, Lemon and Parsley and Greek Baked Whole Tuna with Ladolemono (Greek Olive Oil and Lemon Sauce)