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Sunday, November 6, 2011

The Greek octopus

I have always lived near the sea and I can't imagine living anywhere where the sea isn't at walking (or biking) distance. Even if I don't have a view of it from my window, I can still feel its presence and that, in some way, makes me feel free.






It seems that I fell in love with the sea from a very young age. I don't remember exactly when I learned how to swim but I can't remember a time when I wasn't swimming.






We had a summer house by the sea and for three whole months, I'd be at the beach for hours each day either swimming, playing with my friends, or engaging in my other favorite activity; helping my grandfather with his catch of the day.






No, my grandfather wasn't a fisherman, but he loved going diving for mussels and clams, and adored going spearfishing for octopuses. Whenever he'd catch one, he'd emerge from the sea like another Poseidon, trident-type fish spear in one hand, octopus in the other, and my brother and I would go running towards him, eager to see it. It would still be moving and curling its tentacles upwards or inwards, and I just couldn't help but touch his little round suckers.






My grandfather would carefully hand it to one of us and then the real work would begin. We had seen him do it a hundred times and we knew exactly what to do. Under his watchful eye, either I or my brother, would grab the octopus by the head, hold it firmly and start smacking it repeatedly against the seaside rocks. Then we would rub it in a circular motion against those same rocks until it foamed up and changed color, a process called paragouliasma in Greek.






Of course at that age, we had no idea that what we were actually doing was tenderizing the octopus, making it easier for my grandmother to cook it later on the day. What we did know was that we were having loads of fun doing it.






When we'd get home, tentacled trophy in hand, we'd give it to our grandmother who'd prepare it depending on our wishes. She would make htapodi ksidato (marinated octopus in vinegar), htapodi sti shara (barbecued octopus), or htapodi me makaronaki kofto (braised octopus with short pasta).






The latter was always my favorite and it's an all-time classic Greek dish. One that I prepare fairly often in my little expat kitchen. The octopus is first boiled in its own juices, then it is braised in a tomato, red wine and garlic sauce until succulent and finally, the pasta is added to the pan which cooks in the sauce and the octopus' juices.






The marriage of flavors in this rustic dish is purely divine. The sweet, juicy octopus, the smooth yet sharp red wine and tomato sauce and the al dente pasta, combine excellently to create an authentic taste of Greece. This is a culinary peek into my childhood.










Htapodi me Makaronaki Kofto (Greek Braised Octopus with Short Pasta)

People (usually non-Greeks) are intimidated or scared of cooking or eating octopus. They shouldn't. Apart from it being delicious, it is also quite easy to cook. You just need to know how to cook it properly.

 
 
 

38 comments:

  1. Octopus is one of my favorite dishes too! My favorite version is the potato and octopus salad... Unfortunately here octopus is almost impossible to find and super expensive!

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  2. Wow! What an amazing tutorial, Magda. I am not sure we can even get fresh, whole octopus in Tucson but will keep my eyes open for one. I also loved the story of your Grandfather as Poseidon!

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  3. Looks amazing Magda - if I can find some octopus here I will try this. I do love htapodi ksidato especially though.

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  4. Detailed post on one our favourite ingredients, the octopus. I love it with pasta but I don't add any water as there's plenty of liquid in the octopus itself. I braise it in it's own liquid. Remember when octopus was cheap?

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  5. I often cook octopus and it is a real family favorite. The kids love it. This recipe looks really tasty and comforting and I will certainly try it. Loved the image of your Poseidon grandfather and you kids beating the octopus against the rocks.

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  6. It's a chilly rainy day here, and a delight to find your post, glowing with Mediterranean color and warmth! - Mark

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  7. This must have tasted amazing! I love how you used macaroni - they always remind me of Kraft mac n cheese, but this is the non cheesy adult version. Thanks for the Octopus butchering tips too. I need to try this.

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  8. I cooked a whole octopus a while back to make a Croatian risotto with the ink and I did not know what I was doing; the kids loved it and ate it in one swoop but I had not cut it properly; wish I had had your wonderful instructions back then! I want to do it again this time with this lovely recipe. Much easier than the risotto and just as good.

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  9. What an amazing tutorial Magda :) I am a seafood lover, but never bought or tried whole octopus before. This looks intimidating yet delicious :)

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  10. I really love the beach, too.The risotto looks thelicious. And thanks for a great tutorial

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  11. Wow! If I ever have a whole octopus in my kitchen, I'll surely know what to do with it now :) I adore squid, so perhaps I'd like octopus too?!

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  12. I don't cook octopus nearly as often as I should! The tutorial is amazing, I now feel confident enough o buy a fresh octopus (I usually buy a frozen one, because cleaning it has always seemed like such a hassle). I will try to make this in the week-end. Thank you for going into such pains to explain how to handle octopus!

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  13. Beautiful octopus.I don't think I can find any this fresh in Florida. I love what you did with it, Magda.

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  14. beautifully written post. I live in a land-locked place and can only imagine life in constant touch with the sea. excellent tutorial,too. I have never worked with octopus, and when I have eaten it--it has disappointed me with its dryness. Thanks, Magda--I learned so much with this post.

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  15. I WILL try this recipe, 100%. It looks too good to pass!

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  16. I am a huge fan of octopus, and now that I'm back by the sea I wind it easily and cheaply enough. I'll try your recipe for sure next time I get one. The step by step guide on how to clean an octopus is really spot on!

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  17. Thank you all for your comments. I'm so glad you liked this dish!

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  18. Love the photos. I love octopus, the first time i had it was at a greek wedding when i was a young kid. The recipe sounds great.

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  19. Magda Hi, thanks for this recipe because I do not know how to make it.θα το φαμε στην υγεια σας.

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  20. I love your blog so so much.. You have such good recipes and I love your stories too. I too am an expat and I love cooking so thanks for all the amazing ideas! Please keep posting!

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  21. Hello there! For today's lunch I have made htapodi stifado, taking the basic technique from this article. It's turned out fantastic!! And a family trick: When making an octopus dish that includes tomatoes in any form, add the peel of a small orange along with the sauce ingredients. This time round I didn't have oranges, so I added two teaspoons of homemade mandarin marmalade. It hit the spot! I hope you try this and enjoy it as much as we do!

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    1. Hi! I'm so happy you liked it and thank you for the tip. I will give it a try the next time I make it.

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  22. Hi Maga,
    check out my blog:

    http://thepassionateblog.wordpress.com/2012/04/02/remaking-magdas-greek-octopus/

    Thanks for the recipe!!!
    It was great

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    1. Hello! I just saw it and it looks great! I'm very happy you enjoyed it!

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  23. Many years ago I lived in Greece and have fond memories of eating χταποδι με μακαρονακι κοφτο. I had not been able to find fresh octopus, but finally found some frozen in an Asian supermarket. I discovered your excellent blog and followed your directions. It was delicious. Ευχαριστω πολυ!!!

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    1. Thank you very much for your feedback, Sara. I'm glad you enjoyed it!

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  24. Thanks, simple but good. I cannot try anothe way of cooking this nice food. my octopus was foameing when I got it, is that because he was already tenderised (there was no head too)?

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    1. Hi, it was certainly tenderized if it was foaming, but to be honest, it shouldn't still be foaming when you got it. Octopus foams up while you tenderize it, not after. Did you trust the fishmonger you got it from?

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  25. Magda, this is beautifully done! I loved reading the story about you helping your grandparents. I grew up in Victoria, BC, on an island in Canada and I love being near the water. I only realised so much so when I left it! Your instructions and photographs are super duper helpful, and the recipe looks divine. So glad you sent me this link! xx

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  26. Thanks for this! Just bought some pre-cut octopus for pasta and wanted to make sure I cook it right. When I was a child visiting grandparents in Florida there was a Greek restaurant we went to every year and I always got grilled octopus, which I LOVED. My family didn't get it - their loss! Octopus is always a real treat, to this day.

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    1. Haha their loss indeed :) Hope you enjoyed the octopus recipe!

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  27. I just cooked your recipe above. I never ate anything as good as this!! Best pasta dish I have tasted, best octopus dish. I just love the flavours. The texture was totally perfect. Not soft, just the right amount of Chew. I forgot to put in the garlic somehow but that didnt change anything for me. Many many thanks.

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    1. Hi there. I'm so glad you liked it! :) Thanks for trying my recipe and for your feedback!

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  28. Your octopus recipes are divine! Thank you! We have been paying big money for char-broiled octo at our fav local restaurant for years... My fiancé is a stone-crabber and gets these in his traps often. We realized we are NUTZ to pay so much when we have fresh available to cook at home. Plus, It's like a freebie treat when you have crab traps. Your instructions have changed our lives! So easy to cook and enjoy! Fresh octopus freezes well and all of your recipes work great with fresh or frozen octo! Thanks-a-Million! From St. Pete, FL

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    1. Your comment made very happy! I'm glad you started cooking your own octopus, it's the best this way :)

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  29. thought I WAS buying a small calamari, got it home and found a huge Octopus, thanks for this, off to the kitchen I go!!

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    1. Oh, but octopus is fantastic. Better than calamari in my book :) I hope you enjoy my recipe Amelia

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