In Bruges (and Brussels)

Visiting the medieval town of Bruges feels like going to sleep and waking up in a fairy tale.

I fell totally and utterly in love with its narrow, cobbled streets, its imposing buildings and Gothic architecture, its unique ambiance, its warm and welcoming people, its history and awe-inspiring art and its purely satisfying food.

Bruges (Brugge in Flemish) is a Flemish city in the northwest of Belgium, whose old city center is, unsurprisingly, a World Heritage Site of UNESCO.




The city center is rather small and nearly encompassed by canals.




Right in the middle of the old town, there is the Markt (Market) where one of Bruges' most prominent symbols is situated; the Belfort (Belfry), a 13th century medieval bell tower.




The Provinciaal Hof (Provincial Court), a neo-gothic government building, is also situated in the Markt.




In Burg square, very close to the Markt, you can see the Heilig-Bloedbasiliek (Basilica of the Holy Blood); a Roman Catholic church built in the 12th century. The Basilica houses a venerated relic of Christ—his very blood on a piece of cloth, used by Joseph of Arimathea during the Descent from the Cross.




In the same square you can also see the Bruges Stadhuis (City Hall).




Another famous sight in Bruges is the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (The Church of Our Lady), a 13th century church that houses the marble sculpture by Michelangelo, "Madonna and child".




I was captivated by the paintings from Flemish masters like Jan Van Eyck, Petrus Christus and Pieter Pourbus at the Groeninge Museum.


Besides all the fascinating scenery, architectural marvels and art, Bruges also has to offer some pretty amazing food. And chocolate. And beer.




There are innumerable chocolateries in Bruges and I have to say that the chocolate I sampled there was superb. The place to buy it? The Chocolate Line. This small shop sells top-quality chocolate that will make you swoon from the very first bite. It is not part of a chain (a very popular thing in Belgium) and they make the chocolate in-house. Try the bitter chocolate with cream that is sold in a cup and the dark and milk chocolate with almonds or praline, sold in blocks by weight.

Local beer, Brugse Zot (Bruges' Fool)

S was in heaven in Belgium. There were beers everywhere. So many of them actually that it was impossible to pick one to drink. Thankfully, we had inside information and one night we went to Cambrinus, one of the best beer-brasseries in Bruges. Cambrinus offers a selection of over 400 beers and the staff there were more than eager to help us choose the ones that fit our particular tastes.




Belgium is synonymous with waffles and we couldn't leave without trying one, or two, or, ok you got me, I can't resist waffles, ok? BitterSweet serves some delicious waffles and the best cappuccino S has had outside of Italy. S is an espresso and cappuccino fiend. He knows what he's talking about.




The Flemish part of Belgium is famous for fries (Vlaamse frites) and if you want to try the real stuff then you have to go to Chez Vincent. They also serve Hollandse bitterballen (Dutch meatballs) and fries to-go paired with mayonnaise—just like here in The Netherlands—which is ideal when you'd rather go sight-seeing around town than sit at table.




While in Bruges, we went to two restaurants where the food, service and atmosphere were simply excellent.
The first, De Vlaamsche Pot, served real Flemish food. We had Zeeland steamed mussels with Belgian fries, Burgse (from Bruges) sausage that was made by a local butcher specifically for the restaurant, and Waterzooi van zeevis (fish stew).
The second, Brasserie Raymond, served Belgian-French cuisine. We had North Sea shrimp croquettes with fried parsley, bouillabaisse, Belgian beef steak with béarnaise sauce, and Vol au vent with poultry, a classic Belgian dish.

I need to go back there. I miss the food.




We then headed towards Brussels, which is only an hour drive from Bruges.

House of Dukes of Brabant

The Grand Place (Grote Markt) was magnificent.

The Guild Houses

Victor Hugo described it as "the most beautiful plaza in the world".

Brussels Stadhuis (City Hall). A Gothic building from the Middle Ages.

I liked it. In fact, I was quite impressed by it.
But, it wasn't Bruges.


Click here to see more photos from Bruges and Brussels.

The battle of the mustards

Have I ever told you how tiny my fridge is? It is tiny. It goes well in my tiny kitchen but it doesn't go well with our huge appetites. This fridge is not my friend.

Every time I buy a (small) watermelon from the market, there is always a battle for space. A battle between the watermelon and everything else that is in my fridge. Eggs, cheese, nuts, butter, vegetables, condiments, milk, the occasional bottle of wine or beer and of course these jars of mustard.





I believe I have more than enough for S and me. I actually think I have more than enough for a small army.


When I was little, I used to open the fridge and eat the mustard straight from the jar with a spoon. Everyone thought I was a child with peculiar tastes. Now those same people think I'm an adult with peculiar tastes.
The only difference is that now, I'm not content with one jar. Now I feel like I need at least ten different kinds of the yellow stuff.

At this moment, in my fridge, there are eleven different jars/bottles of mustard. Jars that are occupying precious refrigerator space.


So let me introduce you to,

the French.
Among the best.





The Dutch.
They do mustard really well here.





The English.
Very strong vinegar flavor. Too potent for me.






The American.
Yellow mustard is a classic but this particular one is not.






And then we have... Winnie the Pooh.
Don't ask.






Oh, and let's not forget these. Because who can live without mustard powder or mustard seeds??






And how about you? Do you have a favorite kind of mustard? C'mon, don't leave me hanging. Please tell me I'm not alone in this mustard-crazed world of mine.






P.S. I'll be back at the end of the week with a recipe including... well, you guessed it, mustard.

Paris, je t'adore

I'm back. I think.
Because even though I'm home, sitting at my desk, in front of my computer, writing these words, I might as well still be in Paris.
Mentally, that's where I still am.

I'm still marveling at the imposing Eiffel Tower,






admiring the grandeur of the Notre Dame,






eating an apple tart with the most flaky, buttery and delicious puff pastry ever made, from the boulangerie of all boulangeries, Poilâne.






I'm still shopping at Mora, getting lost among the rows and rows of shelves filled with pots and pans, wooden spoons of all shapes and sizes and innumerable pastry bag nozzles,






gazing at the Seine, daydreaming about what it would be like if I lived here, in Paris.






I'm still guiltily stuffing my face with 1.50 € macarons from Pierre Hermé while S is going on and on about how overrated they really are.

1.Pistachio, 2.Salted caramel, 3.Passion fruit with milk chocolate filling, 4.Rose, 5.Chocolate

I'm still amazed by the glorious works of art housed in Paris' museums.

I'm still celebrating my anniversary with S while having a glass of wine at a quaint restaurant in Montmartre.

I'm living in the moment.






I'm still frantically changing metros in the chaotic, bustling Parisian underground,






eating a sandwich à la Grecque with feta, cucumber and tomato and wondering how a taste of home, so far away from home, can be so damn good.






I'm still standing on Pont Alexandre III contemplating the beauty of Paris,






dining at an old Parisian restaurant and feeling like I'm transported back to the 1890s when it first opened its doors.






I'm still wandering the streets of Paris, holding hands with my love, not caring where we'll end up.






I'm back. I think.